Towards the end of the first chapter of James Cairns and Alan Sears’
“The Democratic Imagination,” the authors describe the application of the
globalised paradigm of neoliberal capitalism through the spread of westernized
systems of democracy. Regarding the opportunity for development of
greater political stability in Libya in 2011, Barack Obama noted “even as we
promote political reform and human rights in the region, our efforts cannot
stop there. So the second way that we must support positive change in the
region is through our efforts to advance economic development for nations that
transition to democracy” (21).
Cairns and Sears temper Obama’s purported
motives of selfless intent with perspectives of economists who point out that
the advancement of democracy internationally also provides supportive
conditions for self-interested western nations to increase their GDP by means
of increased export, bolstered by stable and reliable governmental institutions
including courts, an independent judiciary, and rule of law (21). In
addition, although economic development in the form of industrialization
allegedly leads to greater quality of life for citizens in impoverished
nations, it also conveniently alleviates the responsibility of more prosperous
western nations to provide foreign aid, whether directly or through contributions
to the United Nations or other NGOs.
An example of a case study that illustrates the damage of an
emphasis on capitalist democratic politics to the detriment of liberal human
rights (or really any structure which could be called “ethical”) is the garment
industry in the Global South. No longer called the “third world”, the
Global South has been collectively redefined as “developing” or
“underdeveloped” countries. The
self-centeredness and egocentrism underlying the agenda of western nations in their
overseas promotion of democracy becomes apparent when one asks whose definition
of “development” is being prioritized. For
example, Jeff Noonan discusses the life-blindness of money-value growth as
measured by quantifiable data such as GDP that conceals the practically
unrestrained environmental damage caused by capitalistic economic growth (142).
This is especially true in the global south where industry regulations
can vary from being loosely enforced to practically nonexistent. Simply
put, it is more convenient for western nations if the environmental degradation
inherent in modern industrial practices is relegated in the far-off global
south. In relation to the textile and garment industries, the amount of
chemical waste and polluted water and air is enormous, with the World Bank
estimating that the textile industry alone produces 20 per cent of all global
industrial water pollution. Such an emphasis on “development” conceals
the fact that such practices are not authentically in the best interest of said
nations’ inhabitants.
Solutions for sustainable economic growth and
local development which respect the integrity of the environment and human
rights are considered impossible to implement if the residents of the Global
South are to progress towards experiencing the same quality of life as
westerners. That is, quality of life as defined by access to a wide range
of goods and services produced by a competitive local market or imported from
the west, particularly consumerist domestic goods like cosmetics, clothing,
food, and entertainment. The cultural propaganda promoted within the
content of such goods further reinforces narratives of the prestige of western
democracy. Thus, a common-sense western style of thinking dictates that
the only option available for “developing” nations is industrialization since
it opens additional avenues for export, reinforces the legitimacy and prestige
of democracy, and prevents environmental damage from taking place within the
borders of western nations.
Another benefit of western “development” is
increased access to the inexpensive and easily exploited labour force of the
Global South, which arguably has an even greater impact on its respective
societies than environmental degradation. In the garment industry, women
primarily dominate the workforce due to structural issues of patriarchy
worldwide. Capitalist practices of ruthless exploitation in the garment
industry add to the oppression by further subordinating them, especially in
Muslim countries such as Bangladesh where women are conditioned to not have a
voice.
On a personal note, I’ve had the privilege of
doing some research and writing on the topic of the female-dominated workforce
in the textile and garment industry since the Rana Plaza collapse in Dhaka in
2013. I have talked at length with friends and family regarding the inhumane
practices that are entrenched in the labour system due to a lack of
international intervention for the promotion and securing of workers’ rights.
I’ve noticed when sharing information regarding the desperate working
conditions of garment labourers that there is a point at which individuals tend
to reach “maximum saturation,” indicated by a glazing of the eyes. I’m
guessing that this indicates that the individual is either overwhelmed with the
horror of it all and is experiencing feelings of hopelessness, or, that they’re
apathetic and don’t desire to have their belief system challenged regarding the
westerner’s entitlement to cheap and disposable clothing. Westerners have
become accustomed to having access to inexpensive, disposable clothing for so
long without asking questions or thinking about it critically that it’s become
part of the cultural narrative.
On the topic of the conflation of life-value and
money-value in capitalism, Noonan writes:
the money-value system is the ruling
value-system of liberal-democratic capitalist society. As the ruling
value-system it is the ultimate basis of legitimacy of both public policy and
individual choice...This instrumentalization of life requirements and
capacities is the basic structure of ethical harm in liberal-democratic
capitalist societies. Where policy and people mistake the growth of
life-value for the growth of money-value, they can support policies or make
decisions in their own lives which reduce life-value but increase money-value
without noticing the loss of life-value” (144).
The money-value system as the ultimate basis of
legitimacy for individual choice is illustrated by the fact that I can purchase
an exceptionally cute cream-coloured boho-inspired peasant top at H&M for
$15 and not worry about it if it just sits in my closet or I throw it out
because it’s so cheap. I would argue that “cheapness” is the guiding rule
for purchasing upheld by the vast majority of western consumers, and not
whether the person who constructed the garment received a fair wage or worked
in conditions that were reasonable. I make this observation (at least on
behalf of those who identify as women) based on the outrageous success of
fast-fashion retailers such as H&M, Joe Fresh, Forever 21, Zara, Charlotte
Russe, Bershka, Primark, Topshop, Uniqlo, etc. But if cheapness is the
only ethical standard informing our habits of consumerism, by extension, we are
also making judgments regarding the value of labour for the individual who
produced the garment, and ultimately, of their life-value (or lack thereof).
Following the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013,
subsequent collapses and fires happened in Bangladesh in other factories,
bringing some much-needed international media attention to some of the worker’s
rights deficits in the nation. Information on the complex situation of
the garment industry is becoming harder to avoid, which means that
hypothetically, the consumption patterns of fast-fashion shoppers should be
evidencing development of an ethical conscience in alignment with increased
awareness. Following the 2013 disasters in Bangladesh, however, the fast
fashion industry had its most successful year ever.
So why do westerners abandon residents of the
global south to their dreary futures? In my estimation, it’s because of
underlying beliefs of entitlement to western privilege based on imperialism.
If I were to translate this statement into a mathematical equation in
order to depict this relationship in the reductionistic quantitative terms
typically appropriated by capitalism, I estimate that it would look like this:
Whereas w = white people and b = brown
people, w > b
Although, to make the equation more accurate,
there could be a number of variables that contribute to structures of
consumption fostered by western privilege. Perhaps individuals feel that the
west is entitled to reward itself for having attained a certain standard of
living, or that they’re helping people in “developing” nations to obtain a
higher standard of living, or perhaps they live under a rock and are not aware
of the media attention that has been paid to Bangladesh in the past few years,
or perhaps they are simply wilfully ignorant and refuse to acknowledge their
role in a system that has and assuredly will continue to contribute to a system
of human oppression. Regardless, I think it would be appropriate for the
international sphere to quit prioritizing western interests by labelling the
global south a region of “developing” or “underdeveloped” nations, and use the
more fitting label of “nations vulnerable to exploitation” or perhaps
“habitually exploited nations.”
At the domestic level, I repeat the words of
Lenin in asking, “what is to be done?” Bangladeshi workers who survived
the tragedies of 2013 and were asked for solutions to the problem simply
encouraged westerners to continue to purchase Bangladesh-made garments.
At the same time, a BBC documentary shot after the Rana Plaza disaster in
2013 recorded a male factory worker as saying, “after five hours of
sleeping, in the morning we have to get up at 5. My mind doesn't
want to do this, brother. This, in fact, is inhuman. Compelled, we
are compelled. We are prisoners. We have to come."
Another documentary produced by the Australian Broadcasting Company in
2013 reported that there had been 43 factory fires in the past 18 months.
A Globe and Mail article from October 2013 reported that according to a
national safety assessment performed by Bangladeshi engineers, approximately 90
per cent of Bangladesh’s garment factories are structurally unsound.
The vast majority of textile
and garment TNCs are well aware of the working conditions in Bangladesh but are
unwilling to reinforce the vast changes needed to systems of labor through
firsthand on-the-ground checks that ensure appropriate standards of building
safety and labour practices. A few have signed on to organizations such
as the Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord (BFSA), which provides a minimal
structure of accountability by ensuring the structural stability and
fire-preparedness of factories. The Joe Fresh brand, which was heavily
implicated in the Rana Plaza disaster for having subcontracted an order to the
factory, resisted responsibility for weeks after the disaster, despite Joe
Fresh clothing items being strewn about the wreckage. They eventually
signed on to the BFSA. Minimal-intervention organizations don’t address numerous
other continued violations of worker’s rights such as denial of work breaks,
forced over-time, lack of access to plumbing facilities and running water, lack
of ventilation, sexual harassment of women by male co-workers and overseers,
and so on. Perhaps, however, the evidence of a few fast-fashion companies
signing on to the BFSA following the media blitz is a hopeful sign that
collective action in the form of consumer pressure can produce change that
moves in the direction of respecting the rights of workers.
My own solution has been to
purchase everything I need or want from local second-hand shops. I work
at a consignment store, which makes it much easier for me to find what I need.
If I can’t find said items locally through the second-hand market, I try
to find a product that’s made in a country where ethical standards of labour
are enforced, such as in North America or Europe. I’ve written to a few
companies to tell them that I think they have ethical responsibilities that
need to be fulfilled or to tell them that I appreciate them joining
organizations such as the BFSA. I figure the BFSA is better than nothing
- it’s a start. Despite the pleas of Bangladeshi garment workers to
continue buying Bangladesh-made clothing, I don’t buy “fast fashion” anymore.
I recognize that for garment industry workers, this industry is their
livelihood, but I’m also extremely reticent to support an industry that places
individuals in such a difficult double-bind (you can be a working slave and
make a tiny amount of money, or you can be unemployed and be free but possibly
starve) and causes emotional anguish because of its oppressive practices.
I would rather advocate for
change through letter writing and spreading awareness rather than directly
feeding into a system that ruthlessly exploits. On that topic, I was thinking today about
how I used to revel in my victory as a fashion hunter when I found a pair of
basic black pants by Joe Fresh on the clearance rack at Superstore for a measly
$3. I’d reminisce with my woman friends about my “thrill of the find” and
that I managed to get several years of use out of them. It only dawned on
me today as I started to write this piece - talk about western privilege.
An actual human being with as much intrinsic worth and as much capacity
to feel and think as myself may have died for me to wear those $3 pants.
WAY TO GO COURTNEY, YOU JUST SET THE BAR SKY-HIGH.
ReplyDeleteAn alternative suggestion for a brand name of the global south: vulnerable?
I've found Noonan's book so far to be a little high-minded, in the sense that he seems to occupy a room in the ivory tower of academia. Nonetheless, I don't disagree with most of what he writes, and more than anything, I'm intrigued to find out how he thinks we could work to align our system to conform to life-affirming ethics.
I'm throwing in my two thumbs up on this post, in the hopes that you will return them to me with a couple of sticky-notes attached suggesting how I can live up to this standard.